M7577 Heathered Wrap Jumpsuit

M7577 jumpsuit bodiceI really like this pattern, McCall’s 7577. My version is pretty plain at first glance, but then, party in the back! I like the unexpected twist on a basic, comfy jumpsuit.

M7577 back yokeThis fabric is a lightweight but substantial knit with a lovely brushed hand and good recovery. So many of the fabrics I find are mysteries, and this one said nothing on the bolt but was obviously better quality than the other fabrics in this tiny shop I discovered. It drapes nicely but doesn’t cling.

McCall's 7577 jumpsuitUsually when I make a garment in a knit out of a pattern drafted for wovens, I do go down a size. I already went down a size because this is a McCall’s pattern anyway. I chose not to go down another because I didn’t want this knit clinging to my backside and I am treating this as a comepletely wearable muslin. I would like to make one of the more flirtyy romper views in a rayon. I just about died over Thimberlina’s version. It has birds!

McCall's jumpsuit 7577 frontI pretty quickly veered off the pattern directions after I assembled the back yoke and front pieces. The front edge is a bias cut, and as such is very vulnerable. On my knit I knew I needed to deal with that or the front would gape open and basically, the whole thing would be a disater and not wearable. Since you must shimmy in and out of that top by opening and putting pressure on that front edge, I decided to reinforce it with fold-over elastic.

McCalls jumpuit patternWith the fold over elastic, I was able to draw up the front a little bit by stretching my elastic as I sewed it. So my front edges actually tuck in towards my chest and it keeps everything much more secure. The elastic also helps with recovery after I stretch the front open to go to the bathroom multiple times a day.

M7577 back viewThe rest of the construction is not noteworthy. I used a double needle to finish my armholes, and there was a bit of tunneling. Sad, but I needed the armholes to retain some stretch. The hem I just used a straight sstitch. The waistband is constructed by using the seam allowance of the waist seam folded up as a casing. I was not looking at the instructions anymore by that point, please note.

McCall's 7577I did add to the length of the bodice to ensure it would blouse nicely over the waistband. The hem length was totally invented, too. I wanted a shorter jumpsuit so it would be nice and casual. I may cut it off further…I can’t decide. Hem lengths have been all over the place in fashion right now and I know that affords me a lot of freedom to choose what looks best on me, but what DOES look best on me? I have the hardest time determining that. I just can’t look at my own image objectively. Suggestions welcome on this subject!

Episode10MichelleWe do have another exciting Clothes Making Mavens podcast episode up! I am so jealous that Lori got to interview Michelle of ThatBlackChic.com, but since she recorded it we all get to enjoy it. I really love how Michelle explains her outlook on fashion as art. I am always torn when faced with that question. I want to push the envelope, but am I comfortable wearing the more artsy ideas I come up with? Lately I’ve been buying much more subdued fabrics and it makes them a bit less inspiring, actually. And if you want to be inspired, listen to Michelle and check out her beautiful creations! She’s amazing, no lie.

 

Simply a tank dress with McCall’s 6559

M6559 dress top frontThis is the kind of project that I usually dismiss from my project list. It was simple, it was fast, I learned no skills, I paired no fabrics. But I have been drowning in a sea of huge goals lately. My wardrobe plan for the Pattern Review Wardrobe contest was very involved. Of course I love to push myself for contests, but the fact that I only finished 3 items (one turned out to be a wadder) and started one more reveals the unrealistic hopes I had. Continue reading

Wrap up on the McCall’s 6991 blouse

IMG_9789Sewing this blouse (McCall’s 6991) was an uphill battle that has been dragging on for months. I began a little distracted, and quickly realized that I needed all my attention on my project when I

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immediately finished the wrong side of the self-faced edge. Ugh. I wasn’t going to pick out my beautiful baby hem, it would have just shredded the fabric anyway, so I just refolded it. But I had already sewn it to the yoke. Had to unpick that. Then it didn’t lay as well at the join. So I set it aside in a huff. Continue reading

Just a swingin’ people tank

McCalls6751dTurns out I have a ton of the “people” fabric left over from my Suzy pants. Sometimes pants patterns call for double the length of your leg, so I bought 2.5 yards. But what I have figured out in my vast pant making experience (3 pair!) is that if the apparel fabric is 60″ wide I can always get both pant legs on one width of fabric and I will only need 1.25 – 1.5 yards (making pants very economical, no?).

McCalls6751aSo I have a bunch of this great fabric sitting around. What to do with it? It had to be something light and breezy. So I used McCall’s 6751 to make this easy tank top. It features a hi-lo hem (no, I’m not sick of the hi-lo hem yet! More to come!) and a cute little box pleat detail at the back neckline that is impossible to see on my busy people fabric, but makes the back float down and out nicely.

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Do you see the people? Look carefully!

I didn’t read the directions for this simple tank, so I can’t give a thorough review. I like the fit of the neckline and armhole very much. I might use that for other pattern modifications, actually.

McCalls6751gDuring construction I tried it on and it looked huge! I know what you are thinking – “What? A McCall’s pattern is too big? And why are you surprised, Helena?” The A-line shape was so exaggerated I looked like a tent. I thought I was going to have to do some major alterations on it, like take it in several inches on each side, and that would, of course, mess up the hemline curve, which was my favorite part of the otherwise pretty plain tank.

McCalls6751bBut instead of all that, I just chopped it off! I love the proportion so much now! I don’t know if I will wear it without a layer under it, but if the tank under it is slim it preserves the impression of a crop top without actually showing my tummy. Who knows, maybe we will have a super hot day here and I’ll wear it without something underneath…if I do, I will most certainly not take a picture and post it on the internet!

McCalls6751fI had so much extra fabric that I could make bias tape to finish my neckline and armholes. I love that finish and I wanted to make sure it stayed light and easy.  Then I just turned up the bottom hem twice.

MCalls6751hPlease note the awesome painted “H” background we found at a school in Bellevue. I wish I could do all my photos in front of my own signature monogram! Hmm… maybe I should paint one of these on the side of my house?

Pink McCall’s 6793 Anthropologie copy

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Turns out I sew pink garments all the time! I’m entering this blouse into the sew-along on Project Sewn.
Well, I started this blouse back when I was following Seamstress Erin Bow Blouse Sew Along. It was going to be blouse number 2 in a list of 3 ideas I had. What a dreamer I am! I did not get 3 tops done that month, and then Christmas steamrolled over me and my big plans fell by the wayside. I did get to pattern test Seamstress Erin’s Presidio Purse, though. That was a blast! Continue reading

McCall’s 6754 peplum top

McCalls6754aSure, I’ve known this peplum thing is a trend. I’ve seen it. I’ve noticed. But I did not think it applied to me for 2 reasons: 1) All peplum tops I’d seen were very dressy tailored tops and not appropriate for my lifestyle 2) I don’t care for highwaisted items. They feel funny and I attempt to pull them down to my belly button. Continue reading

Peacock Chiffon Dress for Project Sewn

peacock dress1For once, I can say that I’m so thrilled with how this turned out. I created this! I felt very Project Runway (except I made it for Project Sewn) while I worked. There was a hard deadline– my little brother’s wedding. I had to fly to Texas for it, so I would be away from my sewing machine (does anyone else get filled with dread when they contemplate that?). I actually sewed the zipper in and slid it off the machine to hop in the car and leave for the airport. I even hand finished the hook and eye while waiting for my flight. And actually, since my flight ended up being VERY delayed, my hook and eye is very well done, if I do say so myself. Continue reading

If Jackie O. wore chevron velour

DchevronshirtD needed a black or white shirt to go with many of her colorful skirts that are currently not getting worn, but I didn’t want to buy a boring t-shirt. So when I saw this cute chevron velour I snapped it up. I bought a lot so I could also make something for my older daughter with this cozy stuff.

This pattern, McCall’s 6786, is so perfectly my style. I love a Jackie O collar! I bought it in both my girl’s sizes because I could see so many possibilities. The collar is supposed to be cut on the bias, which would be fun to try. It was not a good idea for this fabric choice, though. It made me dizzy. Continue reading