For my next Grainline Morris blazer, I found another totally awesome 1980’s knit fabric, this time in a vertical stripe. So rad! It is actually quite hard to find a vertical stripe knit nowadays, so I was excited when I found this thrift shopping, even though it was just gray and white. I like how the stripe changed direction on the lapels, too.
After the pattern modifications, which took some figuring out, the jacket went together quickly and easily. I once again used my knit interfacing with the stretch going down the lapels, and there was no sagging.
I just had a bit of trouble while topstitching my foldover cuffs. It was too thick for my machine and I got some nesting on the underside. After picking that mess out I went back and more aggressively graded my seam allowances and the problem was fixed.
Usually my Bernina is pretty bomb-proof; what I suspect is the cheap bobbin. The nice heavy bobbins without the holes seem to keep their tension better, or am I imagining that? My mom (who also has this same machine) wouldn’t be caught dead using those flimsy holey bobbins.
So, I am a tall gal anyway, so perhaps I should have lengthened my first Morris blazer, but for this version I really wanted it more relaxed and longer all over. But to just lengthen 5 inches at the lengthen/shorten lines, which are located nearer the waistline, under the point of the lapel, had the potential to look very funny, with a silly high lapel that would look too small. So I had to get more technical with my modifications to lengthen 2 inches above the lapel peak and 3 inches below, for a total of 5 inches.
First, I traced a new front facing piece I am going to use as my template to hack for the front. I chose a point 2.5 inches above the point of the lapel and cut across. I then added 2 inches of paper between where I cut.
Then I taped my pieces together and smoothed the curve of that added paper by laying it over my original pattern piece. You need to make sure the angles between the top cut portion and the lower portion is the same, because the lapel meets in the back and folds over! That is the tricky part! Take your time and get that to match up to the original pattern piece.
Then I used the regular lengthen/shorten lines to cut across my traced facing piece and added 3 more inches there.
To cut out the front piece, I cut my front piece at the lengthen/shorten line and pulled it apart 5 inches, so that the top and bottom matched my revised facing piece. With the facing piece over my front piece, I cut the lapel side along the new pattern piece, but cut the side seam along the original pattern piece, so that the original armhole and shoulder lines are not changed! It will still fit in the shoulder, which is what I love about this pattern!
When you drop the hem of the jacket down to the hip area, it may need some extra room in the width. I just curved out an inch gently from each side, starting from the bustline. I did not change my pattern to do this, I just went for it as I cut. Adding 1 inch to both the front and back gained me a total of 4 inches of extra width. You might want to measure to make sure that is sufficient, but actually, the jacket lacks any closure and hangs open loosely, so if it is not perfect, it isn’t the end of the world.
I used my already cut out back and front pieces to trace the new hem facing so that it would match up perfectly with the added width. It went together just like a normal Morris, but with a bit more relaxed shape!
I hope that is a helpful tutorial. If any of it is unclear, let me know! I know how I did it, but was I able to convey it well? I can always whip out a diagram like I did for my enclosed Aurora tank tutorial. Now, let’s see some cute long Morris blazers!